Climbing at Landstuhl
situation & character
This crag near Landstuhl is only 20 minutes away from Kaiserslautern. Thus it's
excellently suitable for swift task forces from assiduous climbers around
Landstuhl area enitoris est omnis divisa in partes duo, that is "Fladenstein" and
"Krämerstein". The first is quite sheltered by trees, so go there when it's
shi*hot, the latter gets the evening sun as it's facing west.
There's a total of about 25 climbs. They are fairly short with none of the routes
being longer than 10 meters. It's mainly top-roped face climbing including some desperates on
pebbles. Have faith in friction!
The grades don't vary much. You can choose from climbs at VI-VII
and very demanding routes at IX-. However, you'll also find a few routes wich are V.
I can't recommend this crag for beginners who have never climbed before cause you can
quickly get frustrated on some of the easier routes which have a deceptively strenuous
first move nevertheless, the culprit being the rock starting 1.5 meter above ground.
Short put, I think you won't find routes for beginners here.
No worries, mates, it's not as bad as it sounds. Have a look at these impressions
(clicking at the pictures gets you more details):
Don't just trust the bolts, inspect them first!
Climb at your own risk!
|climbing at Krämerstein
(in the center: "Lemonhead",VII)
|"Riß" (VI-) at Fladenstein
||"Wabenwand" (VI+), Fladenstein
approaches & access
You best get there by autobahn. Drive the A6 (and A62 respectively) direction Landstuhl
and leave at intersection Landstuhl direction Pirmasens/Zweibrücken (A62).
Exit the A62 at junction "Landstuhl, Hauptstuhl". (You only get to this junction driving
in direction Pirmasens and it's very close to the intersection!).
If you miss this exit, you'll see the crag to the left of the motorway and you'll realize
that it must have been much larger before the motorway was built.
All the rest is explained by these maps:
Directly after you crossed the autobahn on a bridge, park to the left of the road on a
"gravel place". Grab your climbing gear and follow the path into the forest over
a "cattle grid" kind of thingy.
The way branches after no more than 100 meters and you must therefore decide:
Do you feel like going to Fladenstein, then use the once-I-was-a-stair made of small
sandstones. Follow the path over a meadow and some bushes to the crag's top. Install
topropes and either rappel or walk towards the autobahn in order to downclimb and to
walk around the rock to the start of the routes.
If you wanna go to Krämerstein, follow the turn right, hop over a small stream,
walk left following the trail, going upwards when there is a fork. After max. 15 minutes
you should arrive at Krämerstein, otherwise have another enquiring look at the map :-)
Bolts and Rings are marked "x". "K" is an arrete (it might come in handy). TR=Toprope. H=bolts.
Climbs should be toproped, if not indicated otherwise!
These information come without guarantee!
If you find new bolts or want to announce absence of one
or send nice comments, please mail me!
The routenames and the topos come from Matt's written guide.
Big cheers to him cause without his drawings this page wouldn't be here.
As in every climbing area the following applies: The evaluation (grading) of the routes
is terribly subjective.
- VII; 5H (lead recommended)
- a)VI+ (right, pockets without arrete) "Wabenwand"
d)VI+ (arrete only)
x) variation of a) and d); my favourite choice :-)
- V+ "Riß"; TR to H just above the end of the crack
- VII "Shine"
- VIII "Mystereality"
AA Exit (if you dare...)
- VIII-/VIII (depending on height) "Selecta"; 2H
- VII (arrete only, otherwise VI+) "TommyGun"; TR tied to tree
- IV+ "Willies Crack"; TR using tree
- VIII "Bogen"; 1H (TR advised)
- VII+ "The Clock"; 5H
- VI+ "The Tooth"; 3H
- V+ "Chimney Crack"
- VI+ "The Roof"; TR using tree or lead using friends/rocks
- VII "HunchBack"; 2H
- V- "Hunchback Crack"; TR an something, that's adequate :-)
- VII "LemonHead/Mondsichel"; 2H
Comments are highly appreciated and strongly encouraged!